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Chilli paste: It's what's for breakfast. Spread on toast, it looked like apple butter, but Maesri brand chilli paste for bread (8 oz.; .75) gave me a whiff of fish sauce and dried shrimp before zinging my throat with tamarind. That's all good, but I wish it weren't at odds with my morning coffee. In the afternoon, Maesri's nam pla wan (Thai-style fruit dip; 8 oz.; .50), offers much the same ingredient list in chunkier form; I like to spoon it on slices of mutsu apple. Most days, Bangkok
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